Специально выбрал доставку из России, так как надеялся, что посылка придет быстро и не поврежденная. Но я ошибся - пришла поврежденная и очень! Посмотрите на фото: край печатной платы "завернут" от сильного нажима, один электролит смят, переменный резистор лопнул пополам, и сломанный переключатель!. Даже алюминиевый радиатор имеет вмятину! Наверное мою посылку переехал автопогрузчик...

Специально выбрал доставку из России, так как надеялся, что посылка придет быстро и не поврежденная. Но я ошибся - пришла поврежденная и очень! Посмотрите на фото: край печатной платы "завернут" от сильного нажима, один электролит смят, переменный резистор лопнул пополам, и сломанный переключатель!. Даже алюминиевый радиатор имеет вмятину! Наверное мою посылку переехал автопогрузчик...

Специально выбрал доставку из России, так как надеялся, что посылка придет быстро и не поврежденная. Но я ошибся - пришла поврежденная и очень! Посмотрите на фото: край печатной платы "завернут" от сильного нажима, один электролит смят, переменный резистор лопнул пополам, и сломанный переключатель!. Даже алюминиевый радиатор имеет вмятину! Наверное мою посылку переехал автопогрузчик...

Car audio amplifer for subwofer only good quality

Car audio amplifer for subwofer only good quality

Car audio amplifer for subwofer only good quality

Time will tell. It gets very hot to the touch, but I guess that's why the built in heat sink. Wasn't sure how to power it at first, but then realized from the not-so-clear wiring instructions on the sales page that you need to either use a second + positive connection to the REM+ (remote) input connector, (preferably an ACC+ that turns on/off with vehicle ignition switch), or jumper the + Positive input connector to the REM+ input connector. Nice being able to select either Full Range or just LPF (Low Pulse Frequency) outputs. Running just LPF creates a nice thumping on Low Frequency bass inputs on a selected range of your choice, leads to excellent bass output without it droning or overpowering the rest of the system! I have it paired with Pyle 1000W DVC Subwoofer wired in parallel reducing the input to 8Ω, so not getting the full potential of the subwoofer but I can tell you it's more than enough! For input I used the Hi/Low Frequency converter and tied it inot my subwoffer speaker wire pre-amplification. Found here: https://www.banggood.com/Car-Vehicle-RCA-High-to-Low-Line-Frequency-Audio-Stereo-Speaker-Level-Converter-p-1104126.html?cur_warehouse=CN&p=ZC12102104687201508J Would recommend.

Time will tell. It gets very hot to the touch, but I guess that's why the built in heat sink. Wasn't sure how to power it at first, but then realized from the not-so-clear wiring instructions on the sales page that you need to either use a second + positive connection to the REM+ (remote) input connector, (preferably an ACC+ that turns on/off with vehicle ignition switch), or jumper the + Positive input connector to the REM+ input connector. Nice being able to select either Full Range or just LPF (Low Pulse Frequency) outputs. Running just LPF creates a nice thumping on Low Frequency bass inputs on a selected range of your choice, leads to excellent bass output without it droning or overpowering the rest of the system! I have it paired with Pyle 1000W DVC Subwoofer wired in parallel reducing the input to 8Ω, so not getting the full potential of the subwoofer but I can tell you it's more than enough! For input I used the Hi/Low Frequency converter and tied it inot my subwoffer speaker wire pre-amplification. Found here: https://www.banggood.com/Car-Vehicle-RCA-High-to-Low-Line-Frequency-Audio-Stereo-Speaker-Level-Converter-p-1104126.html?cur_warehouse=CN&p=ZC12102104687201508J Would recommend.

Time will tell. It gets very hot to the touch, but I guess that's why the built in heat sink. Wasn't sure how to power it at first, but then realized from the not-so-clear wiring instructions on the sales page that you need to either use a second + positive connection to the REM+ (remote) input connector, (preferably an ACC+ that turns on/off with vehicle ignition switch), or jumper the + Positive input connector to the REM+ input connector. Nice being able to select either Full Range or just LPF (Low Pulse Frequency) outputs. Running just LPF creates a nice thumping on Low Frequency bass inputs on a selected range of your choice, leads to excellent bass output without it droning or overpowering the rest of the system! I have it paired with Pyle 1000W DVC Subwoofer wired in parallel reducing the input to 8Ω, so not getting the full potential of the subwoofer but I can tell you it's more than enough! For input I used the Hi/Low Frequency converter and tied it inot my subwoffer speaker wire pre-amplification. Found here: https://www.banggood.com/Car-Vehicle-RCA-High-to-Low-Line-Frequency-Audio-Stereo-Speaker-Level-Converter-p-1104126.html?cur_warehouse=CN&p=ZC12102104687201508J Would recommend.

Powerfull Sub amplifier for Jbl12'SubWoofer, Good

Powerfull Sub amplifier for Jbl12'SubWoofer, Good

Powerfull Sub amplifier for Jbl12'SubWoofer, Good

nice

nice

nice

Great

Great

Great

bon produit

bon produit

bon produit

Очень плохая упаковка, нет мягкой прослойки. Товар доставлен очень быстро. Соответствует описанию, работоспособен.

Очень плохая упаковка, нет мягкой прослойки. Товар доставлен очень быстро. Соответствует описанию, работоспособен.

Очень плохая упаковка, нет мягкой прослойки. Товар доставлен очень быстро. Соответствует описанию, работоспособен.

So, my first one was working good, it always ran very hot to the touch, burn your hand hot. At least it worked until at one point after re-wiring my speaker, (ran it like that and then decided to go back to my original wiring which provided a little more volume), and reconnecting it to the power on my car the second time, it sparked and blew the fuse. Then everytime I put in a new fuse it blew as well. Went over all my wiring, all was good but it kept blowing fuses. Couldn't find where the short was.I figured I had shorted it out, but now I'm not so sure after getting this one out of the USA warehouse. It looks a little higher quality and was no problem connecting it up. This one runs much cooler and I can comfortably put my hand on it even after a long period of time pumping music. So with that I'm starting to think there was something quite wrong with the original one I bought. I did notice this new one seems to have an extra ground wire running to the heatsink area. So I don't know. All I know is this one is working better.

So, my first one was working good, it always ran very hot to the touch, burn your hand hot. At least it worked until at one point after re-wiring my speaker, (ran it like that and then decided to go back to my original wiring which provided a little more volume), and reconnecting it to the power on my car the second time, it sparked and blew the fuse. Then everytime I put in a new fuse it blew as well. Went over all my wiring, all was good but it kept blowing fuses. Couldn't find where the short was.I figured I had shorted it out, but now I'm not so sure after getting this one out of the USA warehouse. It looks a little higher quality and was no problem connecting it up. This one runs much cooler and I can comfortably put my hand on it even after a long period of time pumping music. So with that I'm starting to think there was something quite wrong with the original one I bought. I did notice this new one seems to have an extra ground wire running to the heatsink area. So I don't know. All I know is this one is working better.

So, my first one was working good, it always ran very hot to the touch, burn your hand hot. At least it worked until at one point after re-wiring my speaker, (ran it like that and then decided to go back to my original wiring which provided a little more volume), and reconnecting it to the power on my car the second time, it sparked and blew the fuse. Then everytime I put in a new fuse it blew as well. Went over all my wiring, all was good but it kept blowing fuses. Couldn't find where the short was.I figured I had shorted it out, but now I'm not so sure after getting this one out of the USA warehouse. It looks a little higher quality and was no problem connecting it up. This one runs much cooler and I can comfortably put my hand on it even after a long period of time pumping music. So with that I'm starting to think there was something quite wrong with the original one I bought. I did notice this new one seems to have an extra ground wire running to the heatsink area. So I don't know. All I know is this one is working better.

paking very poor not a (bubble raping ) ? working is perfect not bad anyway thanks for the iteme there is missing something remote volum control

paking very poor not a (bubble raping ) ? working is perfect not bad anyway thanks for the iteme there is missing something remote volum control

paking very poor not a (bubble raping ) ? working is perfect not bad anyway thanks for the iteme there is missing something remote volum control